In this Web Page I will try to cover some common problems and solutions for the XJ owner.

If you think I should add something, or think I missed an important point, e-mail me to communicate your concern.

This page will cover independant issues that impact the XJ owner. The first is after you install the lift and taller tires, "Where do you keep the (taller) spare?"

 

 

I have the factory rear spare tire carrier that was a Jeep option from 1984-1995. There is a bit of concern that these carriers are weak and prone to rattling, but no worse than most of the aftermarket carriers on the market today.

I fit a spare 31x10.5 on the factory rack by changing out the factory wheel studs (on the rack) with longer hardened bolts. The wider tire requires the use of spacers between the wheel flange and the tire rack to allow tightening the spare properly.

 

The factory spare tire rack is not without problems, but they can be addressed to provide a long (safe) life.

The first problem is the weak hinge joints. The factory hinge joints are brass and work well for the weight of a standard spare tire. When you add the weight of a larger tire or other items on the rack these hinge joints fail -- the rack falls off it's hinges.

The easy fix, add washers to prevent the hinges from failing and the rack falling off.

 

 

The picture above shows the large washer I added under the lower hinge joint. The following picture shows the smaller washer I added under the top hinge joint.

 

 

The second problem with the factory tire rack is the rivets that hold the inner bracing for the upper mount may fail. (Mine failed after many years of abuse holding not only the 31 inch tire, but also supporting additions like five gallons of fuel and two mountain bicycles.)

When the rivets fail the body panel around the upper mount will crack so if you have any doubts about the integrety of these rivets replace them before they fail. I replaced the rivets (after failure) with hardened screws.

 

We use the tire rack as a ladder to access the roof rack (the race spectator viewing platform) and still abuse the rack for load carring capacity. It will rattle, if not latched correctly, and it does no good eliminating the rear hatch squeek and rattle common to the early model fibreglass rear hatch.

The factory tire rack can work well, with a few improvments.

 

 

Some projects for the XJ are technical and some not so technical.

This is one of the less technical.

There has been requests for where & how to replace the headliner in an XJ. The material covering the headliner on my 88 sagged about a year ago. First we tried to glue it up but with every humid day the loose spots became larger. My wife decided this was a job for her while I wrenched away a Saturday. She recovered the headliner with cloth.

The headliner is a molded one piece fiberglass part covered with cloth on the visible side. It can be removed from the vehicle by removing all the perimeter trim in the back of the interior and loosening the A-pillar trim (it does not need to be removed). The dome lights will need to be removed and the wires disconnected at the respective plugs. The front of the headliner is also super-velcro-ed to the roof just behind the windshield. It helps to run a hand above the headliner and slowly wedge the velcro apart.

Once the headliner is out of the vehicle the old cloth can be pulled off the mold. The residue of glue and foam backing will need to be removed (a shop vacuum works good) and the visable surface prepared for glue and new cloth. The glue I used is 3M type 77 that is normally used for attaching fiberglass in air conditioning ducts. One standard size can should be enough. After the glue is tacky two people can stretch the new cloth over the fiberglass headliner mold. To assure the cloth will stay in place we added eight buttons through the mold. These buttons are a second line of defense should the glue fail to retain cloth. The dome light and visor holes need trimming and the grab handle holes punched to make it easier to assemble.

 

Installing the headliner is a reverse of the removal except you have to work the velcro back in place with a hand between the headliner and roof up front. In the event you want to add wiring above the headliner, the time to do it is before the liner is reinstalled.

It does add a personalized touch if you have the inclination to get wild.

 

Who am I??

 

Training in Fabrication or Engineering?

(We need no stinking credentials!)

BS in Mechanical Engineering from Cal-Poly Pomona, 1985. (Pi Tau Sigma, Tau Beta Pi, SAE, ASHRAE, ASME)

Senior Project, "Design and Fabrication of a carbon graphite & kevlar composite Formula SAE race car frame."

Place, Southern California SAE Max Short Design Competition, 1985.

Fourth Place, South West ASME design Competition, 1985.

Engineering Consultant - Anderson Brothers Racing, SCORE Class 1-2/1600 race car. Second Place in class, Baja 500, 1995. Top ten point series placement in class, 1991-1995.

 

I have (and have owned) other hobbie cars too.

Fabricator & Driver, 1970 GTO, NHRA Bracket Car. Division 6 Bracket finals Qualifier.

Second Place in point series 1982, Antelope Valley Raceway. (5 wins, 2 QF's, 3 DNF's, Best run 12.37@116 mph w/ 3860 lbs.)

Engineering Consultant, 1968 Camaro. (10.43@126mph, very fast street legal car.)

Journeyman Sheet Metal Worker. Metal fabrication, welding, light machine work, forge and foundry experience.

Jeep owner, driver, mechanic.

My computer and communication skills are minimal so I thank the readers who don't laugh at these web page attempts.

 

Happy Trails!

Ed A. Stevens

stvns@aol.com